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Over the past 35 years being involved in cosmetic surgery, I am constantly asked for my opinions of this product, that device, this exercise, that procedure, etc., involving expensive and complex treatments that claim to beautify the skin. As we know, the skin care industry is a 50 billion dollar industry throughout the world and certainly good skin is a sign of beauty. We all want healthy, youthful, unblemished skin, the kind many come by because of good genetics. Although women are primarily the targets for skin care products and devices, men also have concerns. This discussion is about skin care as an anti aging treatment. Skin care for acne or other inflammatory conditions is another subject altogether
Being a facial plastic surgeon, I have performed thousands of procedures over the years for facial rejuvenation. I can attest, as you can see from my photo gallery, that these procedures make striking differences. However, I do not believe many of the skin care product claims provides much benefit for the significant signs of aging.
It is my belief, and certainly it can be challenged, that much of the “skin care” that is advocated by cosmetologists, skin care physicians, and pharmaceutical companies which does not cause a superficial injury to the skin is relatively worthless. Cosmetic products are another story. I greatly appreciate cosmetic products as they conceal skin blemishes and I frequently recommend cover-up makeup for the sequelae of surgery on my patients. Cosmetic usage, especially for women, is a historical part of human culture
I think it is a shame that the federal government does not have specific provisions for truth in advertising pertaining to claims made for "skin care products and procedures." If the main purpose of skin care is to exfoliate (remove) the dead cells of the skin and “create new collagen”, it does no more than what can be done with simple maneuvers. Mild irritation of the skin through some type of chemical or abrasive process is certainly effective and makes the skin look better for a few days. However, this can be accomplished by simply rubbing the skin vigorously with a washcloth until there is some redness of the skin. This is actual exfoliation which can be done with relatively inexpensive products, i.e., a washcloth or some other abrasive.
There are procedures for exfoliation. Certainly superficial dermabrasion can achieve these effects. However, to have any significant permanent change to the skin, an injury has to occur. Over the years, I have performed resurfacing of the skin utilizing dermabrasion, deep chemical peeling (with the main ingredient being phenol) and carbon dioxide laser resurfacing. All these modalities work, as they injure the skin enough that the outer layers of the skin are removed and as healing takes place a new smoother less pigmented skin develops. When new skin forms from healing from such a wound, it is initially crusty, then red, then smoother, and then slightly lighter as time goes by. Remarkable changes can occur, but the price one must pay is a two-week period of unsightliness. These positive skin changes can also be attained somewhat by repeated fractionated laser treatments or intermediate depth trichloracetic acid (TCA) peels. The end results, however takes months to achieve.
In keeping with this discussion on skin care, there are certain skin care products, such as hydroquinone, that diminish the brown spots that occur with age. Also the use of sun screen can retard some of the aging effects of sun on the skin and lessen the incidence of skin cancers. These products work best on those who have lighter skin pigmentation.
The most anti aging or rejuvenating processes are those that surgically address the sagging of the facial and neck features which we all associate with age. The claims that skin care products (or for that matter, facial exercises) can reverse the most tell-tale signs of facial aging are grossly misleading. There are no quick easy substitutes fro the facial rejuvenation surgery procedures.
To summarize my comments, I feel that routine skin care does little to change the skin and that makeup is essential for appearance for women, and its skillful use is very important. Skin care products that make claims to permanently change the skin are relatively worthless. |
